 |
 |
|
|
|
|
|
 |
|
 |
PRUNING TIPS
Extreme caution and safety should be practiced in
pruning trees and, often, it is more wisely done by
an experienced, professional tree surgeon. Always
beware of power lines nearby or actually resting in
tree limbs. Notify electric company personnel
immediately of any downed wires or branches lying on
the wires---DO NOT try to correct the trouble
yourself!
Because pruning stimulates growth, it is best done
in early spring since wounds heal rapidly if made in
the early part of the growing season. Avoid pruning
in freezing weather. An ideal tree form is a strong,
straight trunk and a strong, natural branching
structure. Do not allow the tree to develop with two
or more main trunks, as this will weaken each trunk.
In all trees, a strong central leader is preferred.
If two trunks are developing in a young tree, select
the stronger upright branch and cut any rivals back.
This will create a chosen leader, which will develop
as a central leader. Lower branches should be pruned
above head height in pedestrian areas. When trees
are meant for windbreaks or screens, allow them to
branch very low and more thickly. Prune flowering
trees after they have bloomed. IF a tree is damaged
by lightning or wind, a tree surgeon can best
determine if it is salvageable or how it can best be
re-shaped.
Quick action often will save a partly or wholly
uprooted tree. If the tree cannot be immediately
up-righted, cover any exposed roots right away to
prevent root damage, using hay, wet burlap, mud or
plastic sheets. Prune away shattered roots and spray
an anti-wilting solution on the tree if it is in
foliage. Thoroughly water the tree using only water
to compact the soil (don't tamp the soil manually).
Install guy wires to hold the tree in place until
the root system regenerates. Provide three guy wires
per tree and leave them on for at least 12 months.
Do not allow the tree to dry out for the first 24
hours after damage is sustained.
Size control is the principal reason for pruning
coniferous trees. Pruning is best done after the new
growth is completed in early summer. Do not attempt
to change the shape of pines, spruces or firs. When
an evergreen tree or shrub has a central leader, the
uppermost tip is the leader and elongates year after
year. Be careful not to remove this tip or the
natural form will be ruined. Prune pines in the
spring when the candles (new growth) appear by
cutting any portion of the candles, depending on the
new growth desired. By removing the candle
altogether, no new growth will occur that year.
Deciduous shrubs are pruned to control their size,
remove dead or weak branches, maintain their natural
character and to control flowering, fruiting or
branching effect. In "heading back," branches are
cut back to a healthy bud, encouraging new growth to
develop. In "thinning," a branch is completely
removed either to ground level or to another main
branch or trunk. With flowering shrubs, pruning
should occur as soon as possible after flowering is
completed. Do not prune late in the growing season.
Summer and fall blooming shrubs should be pruned at
any time before new spring growth begins or after
winter dormancy begins.
Broad-leafed evergreen shrubs prefer pruning in late
fall because more air and light are supplied to the
center of the plant. After new growth appears in the
spring, remove dead material due to freeze damage.
Loosen dense branching to open up the foliage area s
the interior of the plant will benefit.
Occasionally, groundcover plants may become too
dense, produce woody stems or tend to mound as they
age. Thinning and removal of some plants and
fertilizing and watering will result in a fresh,
quick recovery. |
|
|
|
 |
|
|
|
Copyright ©2011 Environmental
Landscape and Design,
Incorporated. All right
reserved.
|
 |
|
|
|
 |